Nepal
is a stunning country with many amazing places to see. Whether it be a safari
in Chitwan National Park, immersing yourself in Buddhist culture in Lord
Buddha’s birthplace of Lumbini, or visiting the ancient temples and bazaars of
the Kathmandu Valley, Nepal has something for everyone. But what would a visit
to Nepal be without seeing the mighty Himalayas up close?
Deciding
that you want to trek in Nepal is an easy decision. Deciding which region to
trek in can be more difficult. Although there are hundreds of trekking routes
found in nearly every region of Nepal, when it comes to trekking in Nepal, two
regions reign supreme: Everest and Annapurna. Around 90% of visitors who trek
in Nepal wind up trekking in one of these two regions, and with good reason.
They offer some of the best trekking and views of some of the tallest mountains
on Earth. But between the Everest Region and the Annapurna Region, which region
is better?
If
you get the chance to trek in both regions in your lifetime, you should
absolutely do both! The treks available in these two regions are quite
different, but both regions feature great hiking trails and amazing views.
Choosing between these Annapurna and Everest is tough, and unfortunately, most
people coming to Nepal for trekking only have time to visit one. But after
looking at many trekking websites and seeing the countless treks and
destinations available, many prospective trekkers have more questions than they
did before they started researching. This article will weigh the pros and cons
of each in an effort to try and make the decision easier.
For
many travelers, Nepal has a reputation as an almost mythical place, like a
real-life Shangri-La. Mention Nepal and people will romanticize about
snow-capped mountains and prayer flags waving in the wind. Trekking in
Nepal is a bucket-list item for many travelers, and successfully completing one
of the world-class treks that Nepal has to offer is something worth bragging
about. If a sense of accomplishment or bragging rights is something important
to you, as incredible as the Annapurna Region is, the Everest Region is the
clear winner.
When
you tell someone that you went to Nepal, their first question will usually be:
“did you go to Mount Everest?” Although Nepal has eight of the ten highest
mountains on earth, each incredibly beautiful in its own way, nothing
captivates the imagination like Mount Everest. Tell someone that you saw
Annapurna and Dhaulagiri, or other mountains like Manaslu and Kanchenjunga, and
you’re likely to be met with an inquisitive stare (or maybe just a blank
expression). But if tell someone you saw Mount Everest in person and stood at Everest Base Camp looking up at the tallest mountain in the world, that person will
know exactly what you’re talking about and will inevitably be impressed (and
likely jealous).
The famous boulder at EBC a photo of
which is nearly guaranteed to set a new personal best for you in terms of likes
on Instagram
That
isn’t to say the Everest Region is more impressive than the Annapurna Region.
Both are home to some of the most amazing and awe-inspiring scenery on Earth.
But as you recount your travels to friends, family, and Instagram followers,
stories from the Everest Region always seem to captivate the audience more than
anyplace else.
This
aspect is somewhat related to the “clout” factor discussed earlier. Part of why
trekkers flock to Nepal is wanting to see the rooftop of the world in person.
Trekking in both the Annapurna Region and the Everest Region will have you
trekking at elevations that are higher than the highest point in most
countries. But if you want to truly experience high elevations and see the
tallest mountains, the Everest Region is the clear winner.
The Annapurna Region is named after the Annapurna Massif, which is a chain of some of the tallest mountains on earth. Although Annapurna I is the tallest of the bunch at 8,091 meters, the massif contains quite a few other incredibly tall mountains. This giant chain of mountain contains 13 additional peaks taller than 7,000 meters, including Annapurna II, III and IV, Tilicho, Gangapurna, and Nilgiri, plus the stunning and incredibly sacred Machhapuchhre at 6,993 meters. In addition, Dhaulagiri, the 7th tallest mountain on Earth at 8,167 meters, is visible in many places in the Annapurna Region, including from Poon Hill. And if you are lucky enough to do the Annapurna Circuit Trek, you will likely encounter fabulous views of Manaslu, the 8th tallest mountain on Earth at 8,163 meters.
View from Mulde View Point (3,647 m),
part of the Khopra Danda and Mohare Danda Treks, and just one more day’s hike
from Poon Hill
And
there are certainly some high altitudes that you can experience trekking in the
Annapurna Region. The Thorong La Pass, the highlight and highest point of the
Annapurna Circuit Trek, sits at over 5,400 meters. A hike to Tilicho Base Camp
will take trekkers to 4,919 meters. The popular Annapurna Base Camp and Mardi Himal treks both top out at over 4,000 meters. In short, trekkers can
experience some very high altitudes when trekking in the Annapurna Region.
But when it comes to high elevation, the Everest Region is king. The Everest Region boasts views of the highest of the highest mountains on earth. Mount Everest and Lhotse, the tallest and fourth tallest mountains on Earth, are visible for large portions of the trekking routes in the Everest Region. In Tingboche, not only will you experience incredible views of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse (a 7,861-meter giant that blocks most of Mount Everest from the south), but also views of Makalu, the 5th tallest mountain on Earth at 8,485 meters. And Cho Oyu, the 6th tallest mountain on Earth at 8,188 meters, is visible at a few locations on the famed EBC trek, but from Gokyo Lake the view of Cho Oyu is nothing short of incredible.
View from Kala
Patthar (approx. 5,450 m) before sunrise. Views of Lingtren
(left), Changtse (center) and Nuptse (right). Mount Everest is the triangular
peak above Nuptse
And
when it comes to the actual trekking, the elevations trekkers encounter in the
Everest Region are the highest one can get on earth without climbing a mountain
peak. In the Annapurna Region, trekkers will spend one night above 4,400 meters
on both the Annapurna Circuit Trek and the Mardi Himal Trek. Trekkers who come
to the Everest Region to do the EBC trek will experience at least four nights
at above 4,400 meters. People who decide to do the legendary Three Passes Trek, a regular
entry on any top 10 treks in the world list, will spend a whopping eight days
in a row sleeping above 4,400 meters, as well as crossing 3 mountain passes
higher than the mighty Thorong La Pass!
All that elevation makes altitude sickness a greater threat in the Everest Region than in the Annapurna Region. But by taking one’s time, including rest and acclimatization days, and using a reputable guide and trekking agency, the Everest Region is safely and successfully hiked by the overwhelming majority of trekkers who visit. So, if it’s altitude you’re looking for, the Everest Region is the place.
If comfortable and convenient travel to and from your
trek is important to you, the Annapurna Region is the clear winner.
Getting
to the Annapurna Conservation Area in part depends on which trek you decide to
go on. Many treks, such as Annapurna Base Camp, Mardi Himal, and Poon Hill
begin from Pokhara, which is easily accessible from Kathmandu via a 30-minute
flight (or an 8 to 10-hour drive, depending on traffic). The flight from
Kathmandu to Pokhara is brief, relatively straightforward, and not as
susceptible to weather delays or cancellations as many other flight routes in
Nepal. Other treks like the Annapurna Circuit may require driving anywhere from
four to eight hours to reach the starting point of the trek, however, even this
is breeze compared to travelling to the Everest Region.
View of Machhapuchhre from Sarangkot
on a cloudy morning. The road to Birethani, the starting point for many
Annapurna Region treks, can be seen at the bottom
Getting
to the Everest Region requires either a 20+ hour drive on rough roads, or a
short 30-minute flight. Understandably, most trekkers heading to the Everest
Region opt to fly rather than spend nearly an entire day on a bus. In years
past, most flights left from Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu and
flew direct to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla. However, with Tribhuvan
becoming busier and the weather in Nepal becoming a bit more unpredictable,
most tourists now drive from Kathmandu to Manthali Airport in Ramechhap, which
is where most flights to Lukla take off from nowadays.
Tenzing-Hillary Airport on a clear
morning
Although
a trek in the Everest Region is an incredible experience, unfortunately the
drive to Ramechhap is not. The roads are rough, and due to recent landslides,
which destroyed part of the old road, it can now take as long as five hours to
drive to Ramechhap. Given that flights to Lukla start in the early morning when
the skies are clearest, many trekkers begin their drive to Ramechhap at around
1:00 in the morning. And since flights to Lukla can only take place when the
skies are clear, if flights are cancelled for the day (which does happen
sometimes), trekkers might themselves faced with the choice of waiting in
Ramechhap for the weather to clear, taking the long and grueling drive towards
Lukla, or paying extra for a helicopter ride to Lukla.
But the journey is part of the fun of a trek in Nepal, so don’t let the travel logistics scare you. Both regions see tens of thousands of visitors a year, so a trek in either one is very doable nowadays, especially when using a reputable trekking company.
What
makes for a comfortable trek differs depending on the trekker. For the purposes
of this article, “comfortable” means having access to many of the amenities
that trekkers have come to expect in their home countries, such as good
accommodation, hot showers, good wifi, and quality food. In that respect, the
Annapurna Region makes for a more comfortable trek than the Everest Region.
A
trek in the Everest Region usually starts from Lukla at 2,800 meters, and can
rise to over 5,500 meters in some of the high passes and on Kala Patthar. The
Everest Region is not connected to the rest of Nepal by road, so the
infrastructure tends to be more basic. Electricity tends to be produced
locally, mostly through solar or hydroelectric power. This means that in times
without sunlight or when rainfall is scarce, power failures tend to occur. In
addition, cell phone towers are absent in most areas of the Everest Region, so
trekkers will be without cellphone access after Dingboche. Even in Dengboche
cellular service can be spotty at times. And free Wi-Fi is unlikely to be found
after Namche Bazar, forcing trekkers who want Wi-Fi to either pay a daily fee
at their tea house or spend $10 a day or more for Wi-Fi through Airlink.
The view from Lobuche. No cellular service and unreliable Wi-Fi here, so if you’re up late and can’t sleep you’ll have to go outside to
entertain yourself with views of Nuptse
As for accommodation in the Everest Region, the lack of
roads once again makes for more basic accommodation. Tea houses below the tree
line are typically made from local lumber, with everything else from windows to
toilets to food carried up the hill by porter or yak. Above the tree line,
everything must be brought in by porter or yak. As a result, the tea houses in
the Everest Region tend to have thin walls and shared bathrooms, making for
some cold nights. Although some tea houses above Namche Bazar offer hot
showers, the showers are typical solar powered and cost extra, so don’t expect
a daily shower in the Everest Region. The food available in the Everest Region
tends to be pretty basic as well, and the prices rise considerably the further
you travel from Lukla.
By
contrast, much of the Annapurna Region is connected by road. As a result, the
accommodation tends to be more comfortable; with warm rooms, in-room bathrooms,
and hot showers being far more common than in the Everest Region. Cellular
service and Wi-Fi also tend to be much better in the Annapurna Region, with
free Wi-Fi being the norm at most tea houses and cellular service being
reliable in all but the most remote areas. Food and drink are often cheaper in
the Annapurna Region, with a greater variety of offerings.
Upper Pisang village on the Annapurna
Circuit Trek. Free Wi-Fi and great cellular service abound. The road to
Besisahar is just out of frame to the right
Although
you are still surrounded by nature and the beauty of the Himalayas in the
Annapurna Region, the modern comforts trekkers have become accustomed to are
still available. There are some newer treks like Khopra Danda and Mohare Danda
where accommodation is a bit more basic and somewhat similar to that found in
the Everest Region, but in general the quality of accommodation is better in
the Annapurna Region.
Of course, trekking in Nepal is about connecting with nature and experiencing something new. Some might even prefer the lack of modernity found in the Everest Region. But if comfort is something that’s important to you, the Annapurna Region is the way to go.
Both
the Annapurna Region and the Everest Region boast a variety of world-class
trekking routes. If you’re looking for something more like a glorified hike,
Annapurna Region might be the better option as it boasts a variety of shorter,
less strenuous treks like Poon Hill and Mardi Himal. But if you’re a hiking
enthusiast looking for a true trek, one with more challenging terrain in a more
natural environment, Everest Region is probably a better option.
The
Annapurna Region sees more than three times the number of visitors every year
than does the Everest Region. The reason for this is subject to debate, but
what isn’t debatable is that the Annapurna Region feels more “connected” to the
rest of Nepal. Although some newer treks like still retain that raw feel, the
trails in the Annapurna Region tend to have more of a “day hike” feel. Even the
Annapurna Circuit Trek, the king of the Annapurna Region treks, still has roads
that connect all but two of the villages that trekkers overnight in. And while
there are often sections of trail that avoid these roads, having to trek on
roads at some point is an inevitability on the Annapurna Circuit and on many
other treks in the Annapurna Region. Trekking on roads, even dusty and bumpy
ones, tends to detract from the “natural” experience.
View from the “trekking trail” near
Tadopani, a village on the Annapurna Circuit Trek, Khopra Danda Trek, and some
versions of the Annapurna Base Camp
Thankfully,
most of the trekking trails in the Annapurna Region are not on roads. However,
many of the trekking trails follow the same route as the power lines and
telecommunication cables. And as much as these wires make life in the Annapurna
Region more comfortable, the pictures you’ll take won’t feel as authentic and
it doesn’t quite feel like you’re truly in nature. Even if you’re lucky enough
to get away from the power lines and the roads, you’re more likely to encounter
paved trails and well-constructed staircases in the Annapurna Region. Sure,
great, natural trekking routes can still be found in the upper reaches of the
Annapurna Circuit and on newer treks like Khopra Danda, but the big-name treks
in the Annapurna Region feel a bit artificial at times.
The
Everest Region, on the other hand, feels more natural. There are no roads to
speak of, and no power lines to worry about after the few days of the trek. The
trails, though still well-trodden and safe, tend to be on rock and dirt paths
made by yaks instead of modern construction equipment. You won’t see jeeps or
lorries in the Everest Region, and although you might run into a traffic jam or
two during your trek, it will be trains of yaks and mules causing the traffic.
View from the “trekking trail”
between Gorak Shep and EBC, with the Khumbu Icefall at the bottom left
After
passing Shomare on the way to Dingboche, the trails begin to shine in their
natural splendor. Well-trodden, dirt paths give way to narrow yak trails, loose
scree, large boulders, and even glaciers near EBC and in the higher passes like
the Cho La Pass. The trails become non-linear at times, in that there is more
than one way to get from Point A to Point B. The natural aspect of the trails
in the upper reaches of the Everest Region are truly world-class.
Both regions contain some of the best trekking routes on Earth that are both challenging and rewarding. But true hiking enthusiasts will appreciate the more “wild” side that the Everest Region has to offer.
The Everest Region and the Annapurna Region both offer fantastic scenery. But crazy as it may seem, for some people, seeing mountain after mountain, day after day, might start to get a bit old after a few days. Some people want to see other things like lakes, rivers, orchards, local villages, and wildlife just as much as they want to see the world’s tallest mountains. If you’re looking for variety, both in terms of the types of scenery as well as the types of treks available, Annapurna is the better bet.
As discussed previously, in the Everest Region you can see four of the six tallest mountains on Earth, many 7,000+ meter peaks, as well as countless other peaks above 6,000 meters. And there is some variation in the terrain as well, with the trail from Lukla to Namche Bazar winding through dense rhododendron forests dotted with small terraced farms on either side of a raging river. From Namche Bazar to Tingboche, the dense forest gives way to mountainside shrubs and brush crisscrossed by yak trails. And as you climb even farther up the mountain, the vegetation disappears entirely, leaving a rocky, glaciated landscape that looks like it’s from another planet.
View from the trekking trail between Phakding and Namche Bazar, just before the Hillary Bridge
The Annapurna Region, on the other
hand, has these views and more. In addition to the terrain found in the Everest
Region, the Annapurna Region boasts thick subtropical forests, beautiful apple
orchards, and desert terrain reminiscent of Tibet. Some trekking days, you will
encounter a huge variety of landscapes that keep you on the edge of your seat,
wondering what you’ll see around the next bend. As a result, the landscapes of
the Annapurna Region don’t tend to blend together as much as those found in the
Everest Region.
The Annapurna Region also has a greater variety of trekking options than the Everest Region. Although the Everest Region boasts world class treks such as the Three Passes and Gokyo Lake, these treks all start from Lukla and tend to visit many of the same villages along the way. Although these villages are beautiful, if you’ve already seen Namche Bazar, Dengboche, Tingboche, Lobuche, and Gorak Shep while doing the EBC trek, a subsequent trek to the Three Passes will invariably have you visiting these locations a second time. Plus, if you’re in the market for a short trek, the Everest Region doesn’t have much to offer currently.
View of the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna Ranges from Khopra, which can be reached in only 3 days from Pokhara
By contrast, the Annapurna Region
has so many possible variations for a trek, both in terms of length and places
visited. Annapurna Region has many short treks from 4-9 days, such as Mardi Himal, Khopra Danda, Mohare Danda, Poon Hill, and Annapurna Base Camp, leaving
a traveler with a shorter holiday many options for a great trek. If you have
the time for a longer trek, you can visit the Manang Valley, Thorong La Pass,
the lower reaches of the Mustang Region, and the foothills of the Dhaulagiri
Range. And with road access to many areas of the Annapurna Region, the duration
of traditionally long treks like the Annapurna Circuit can be cut in half by
driving through the lower reaches of the trek instead of walking.
Both regions are fantastic places to trek. But if you’ve done a trek like the Three Passes in the Everest Region, future treks in the region will be much of the same. But every trek in the Annapurna Region has a unique flavor to it, leaving you wanting to come back again and again.
This is the most difficult
category to try and pick a winner between the Annapurna Region and the Everest
Region. Both offer world-class views of some of the tallest and most beautiful
mountains on Earth. Both will take your breath away (both literally and
figuratively). But in an effort to help you choose which region you should
choose if you can only choose one, a visualization of the comparisons can help.
For visualization purposes, you can think of the Annapurna Region as Spanish
Tapas, while the Everest Region would be more akin to a lavish five course
meal.
In Spanish Tapas, rather than a few large dishes spread out over the course of a meal, instead there is a large number of smaller dishes one after another, with additional dishes sometimes arriving after previous dishes are finished. The amount of food eaten is the same as a five-course meal, but there is a greater variety of food and it comes at you one after another. In the Annapurna Region, you might go from a rhodendron forest to an apple orchard to a deep valley with panoramic views of the Annapurna Range over the course of a few hours. The next day, you might leave the lush valleys behind and cross the tree line, hiking along brush-covered hillsides with countless yaks, before reaching a rocky, lifeless-looking, desert landscape where you’ll spend the night. Each view unique and enjoyed for a short period of time, before the next view presents itself as you round the next bend in the trail. These views are all lovely and will leave you incredibly satisfied at the end of your day’s trek.
View from Jomsom. In the foreground are apple orchards, in the background are Niligiri and the Annapurna Range, and in the middle are hills reminiscent of Tibet
The Everest Region, on the other
hand, is like a meal with far fewer courses spread out over the course of the
meal, but each dish is an event in and of itself, making the experience more
than worth the weight. As you walk from Lukla to Namche, the sights you’ll see
are very nice, but you’ll have a sense of anticipation knowing that, on a clear
day, you might be able to get your first glimpse of Mount Everest not long
after crossing the Hillary Bridge. When you do finally see Mount Everest for
the first time with Lhotse and Nupste as its neighbors and the legendary Ama
Dablam looming in the foreground to your right, whether that’s after the
Hillary Bridge or from the plains atop Namche Bazar, you’ll be at a loss for
words.
The trek from Namche Bazaar to Dengboche and then from Dengboche to Tingboche is like an intermission between courses in your meal. Sure, the views will still be beautiful, but you’ll have generally the same view the whole time, until you cross the ridge and see Tingboche and the incredible sight of Lhotse, Island Peak, and Makalu looming in the background. You’ll be treated to another new and incredible view after crossing the Thukla Pass, where behind you will be panoramic views of Ama Dablam and other lesser-known but equally stunning mountains, with other mountains like Pumori, Lingtren and Changtse making their first appearance. And the view you’ll experience as the trail amongst large boulders finally opens up, revealing the legendary Everest Base Camp, is one you will never forget.
View from atop the Thukla Pass, between Tingboche and Lobuche, with many memorial stupas in memory of fallen climbers
As you can see, picking
which region has the better views is a bit difficult. Whether
it’s better to have the great views to come one after another, albeit in
smaller doses, or whether it’s better to wait in the hopes of seeing views on a
grander scale depends on the person. To use a book analogy, if you’re the type
of person that lets the anticipation get the better of you and sometimes decide
to skip ahead and read the end of the book, Annapurna Region might be better
for you. If you’re the type who believes that the anticipation is the best part
and waits happily for the conclusion, the Everest Region would be a good
choice. But really, you can’t go wrong with either.
Hopefully the food example helps you to visualize whether you would prefer your mountain views in Spanish Tapas form or in the form of a five-course meal. But at the risk of tainting your decision-making process by interjecting my personal experience and my subjective bias, I must say that on average I enjoyed the day-to-day views in the Annapurna Region more than those in the Everest Region, but when I reflect on all the beautiful things I’ve experienced in Nepal, more often than not it’s a view from the Everest Region that I’m thinking about.
In case you read the whole blog and are keeping count, the
score is 3 to 3 with one category being a tie (or a punt by the writer). But in reality, the decision really is that
difficult. To sum it up as succinctly as possible, if you want a variety of
trekking options, appreciate a trek that is easy to reach and easy to return
home from, and are looking comfort and modern amenities, the Annapurna Region
is a better choice. On the other hand, if you are looking for bragging rights,
want to experience the highest elevations in the rooftop of the world, and want
to trek in the most natural of conditions, the Everest Region is probably the
right choice.
If the views are the most important thing for you,
hopefully the tapas vs. five-course meal analogy helps. If not, check out the
galleries available on this website for treks in these respective regions and
see which sights you want to see more of in person.