Roving Nepal Trek

Annapurna Region vs. Everest Region: Which One Should I Choose?

Nepal is a stunning country with many amazing places to see. Whether it be a safari in Chitwan National Park, immersing yourself in Buddhist culture in Lord Buddha’s birthplace of Lumbini, or visiting the ancient temples and bazaars of the Kathmandu Valley, Nepal has something for everyone. But what would a visit to Nepal be without seeing the mighty Himalayas up close?

Deciding that you want to trek in Nepal is an easy decision. Deciding which region to trek in can be more difficult. Although there are hundreds of trekking routes found in nearly every region of Nepal, when it comes to trekking in Nepal, two regions reign supreme: Everest and Annapurna. Around 90% of visitors who trek in Nepal wind up trekking in one of these two regions, and with good reason. They offer some of the best trekking and views of some of the tallest mountains on Earth. But between the Everest Region and the Annapurna Region, which region is better?

If you get the chance to trek in both regions in your lifetime, you should absolutely do both! The treks available in these two regions are quite different, but both regions feature great hiking trails and amazing views. Choosing between these Annapurna and Everest is tough, and unfortunately, most people coming to Nepal for trekking only have time to visit one. But after looking at many trekking websites and seeing the countless treks and destinations available, many prospective trekkers have more questions than they did before they started researching. This article will weigh the pros and cons of each in an effort to try and make the decision easier.

 

The ”clout” factor:

For many travelers, Nepal has a reputation as an almost mythical place, like a real-life Shangri-La. Mention Nepal and people will romanticize about snow-capped mountains and prayer flags waving in the wind. Trekking in Nepal is a bucket-list item for many travelers, and successfully completing one of the world-class treks that Nepal has to offer is something worth bragging about. If a sense of accomplishment or bragging rights is something important to you, as incredible as the Annapurna Region is, the Everest Region is the clear winner.

When you tell someone that you went to Nepal, their first question will usually be: “did you go to Mount Everest?” Although Nepal has eight of the ten highest mountains on earth, each incredibly beautiful in its own way, nothing captivates the imagination like Mount Everest. Tell someone that you saw Annapurna and Dhaulagiri, or other mountains like Manaslu and Kanchenjunga, and you’re likely to be met with an inquisitive stare (or maybe just a blank expression). But if tell someone you saw Mount Everest in person and stood at Everest Base Camp looking up at the tallest mountain in the world, that person will know exactly what you’re talking about and will inevitably be impressed (and likely jealous).

The famous boulder at EBC a photo of which is nearly guaranteed to set a new personal best for you in terms of likes on Instagram

That isn’t to say the Everest Region is more impressive than the Annapurna Region. Both are home to some of the most amazing and awe-inspiring scenery on Earth. But as you recount your travels to friends, family, and Instagram followers, stories from the Everest Region always seem to captivate the audience more than anyplace else.

 

The Elevation:

This aspect is somewhat related to the “clout” factor discussed earlier. Part of why trekkers flock to Nepal is wanting to see the rooftop of the world in person. Trekking in both the Annapurna Region and the Everest Region will have you trekking at elevations that are higher than the highest point in most countries. But if you want to truly experience high elevations and see the tallest mountains, the Everest Region is the clear winner.

The Annapurna Region is named after the Annapurna Massif, which is a chain of some of the tallest mountains on earth. Although Annapurna I is the tallest of the bunch at 8,091 meters, the massif contains quite a few other incredibly tall mountains. This giant chain of mountain contains 13 additional peaks taller than 7,000 meters, including Annapurna II, III and IV, Tilicho, Gangapurna, and Nilgiri, plus the stunning and incredibly sacred Machhapuchhre at 6,993 meters. In addition, Dhaulagiri, the 7th tallest mountain on Earth at 8,167 meters, is visible in many places in the Annapurna Region, including from Poon Hill. And if you are lucky enough to do the Annapurna Circuit Trek, you will likely encounter fabulous views of Manaslu, the 8th tallest mountain on Earth at 8,163 meters.

View from Mulde View Point (3,647 m), part of the Khopra Danda and Mohare Danda Treks, and just one more day’s hike from Poon Hill

And there are certainly some high altitudes that you can experience trekking in the Annapurna Region. The Thorong La Pass, the highlight and highest point of the Annapurna Circuit Trek, sits at over 5,400 meters. A hike to Tilicho Base Camp will take trekkers to 4,919 meters. The popular Annapurna Base Camp and Mardi Himal treks both top out at over 4,000 meters. In short, trekkers can experience some very high altitudes when trekking in the Annapurna Region.

But when it comes to high elevation, the Everest Region is king. The Everest Region boasts views of the highest of the highest mountains on earth. Mount Everest and Lhotse, the tallest and fourth tallest mountains on Earth, are visible for large portions of the trekking routes in the Everest Region. In Tingboche, not only will you experience incredible views of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse (a 7,861-meter giant that blocks most of Mount Everest from the south), but also views of Makalu, the 5th tallest mountain on Earth at 8,485 meters. And Cho Oyu, the 6th tallest mountain on Earth at 8,188 meters, is visible at a few locations on the famed EBC trek, but from Gokyo Lake the view of Cho Oyu is nothing short of incredible.

View from Kala Patthar (approx. 5,450 m) before sunrise. Views of Lingtren (left), Changtse (center) and Nuptse (right). Mount Everest is the triangular peak above Nuptse 

And when it comes to the actual trekking, the elevations trekkers encounter in the Everest Region are the highest one can get on earth without climbing a mountain peak. In the Annapurna Region, trekkers will spend one night above 4,400 meters on both the Annapurna Circuit Trek and the Mardi Himal Trek. Trekkers who come to the Everest Region to do the EBC trek will experience at least four nights at above 4,400 meters. People who decide to do the legendary Three Passes Trek, a regular entry on any top 10 treks in the world list, will spend a whopping eight days in a row sleeping above 4,400 meters, as well as crossing 3 mountain passes higher than the mighty Thorong La Pass!

All that elevation makes altitude sickness a greater threat in the Everest Region than in the Annapurna Region. But by taking one’s time, including rest and acclimatization days, and using a reputable guide and trekking agency, the Everest Region is safely and successfully hiked by the overwhelming majority of trekkers who visit. So, if it’s altitude you’re looking for, the Everest Region is the place.

Ease of Access:

If comfortable and convenient travel to and from your trek is important to you, the Annapurna Region is the clear winner.

Getting to the Annapurna Conservation Area in part depends on which trek you decide to go on. Many treks, such as Annapurna Base Camp, Mardi Himal, and Poon Hill begin from Pokhara, which is easily accessible from Kathmandu via a 30-minute flight (or an 8 to 10-hour drive, depending on traffic). The flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara is brief, relatively straightforward, and not as susceptible to weather delays or cancellations as many other flight routes in Nepal. Other treks like the Annapurna Circuit may require driving anywhere from four to eight hours to reach the starting point of the trek, however, even this is breeze compared to travelling to the Everest Region.

View of Machhapuchhre from Sarangkot on a cloudy morning. The road to Birethani, the starting point for many Annapurna Region treks, can be seen at the bottom

Getting to the Everest Region requires either a 20+ hour drive on rough roads, or a short 30-minute flight. Understandably, most trekkers heading to the Everest Region opt to fly rather than spend nearly an entire day on a bus. In years past, most flights left from Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu and flew direct to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla. However, with Tribhuvan becoming busier and the weather in Nepal becoming a bit more unpredictable, most tourists now drive from Kathmandu to Manthali Airport in Ramechhap, which is where most flights to Lukla take off from nowadays.

Tenzing-Hillary Airport on a clear morning

Although a trek in the Everest Region is an incredible experience, unfortunately the drive to Ramechhap is not. The roads are rough, and due to recent landslides, which destroyed part of the old road, it can now take as long as five hours to drive to Ramechhap. Given that flights to Lukla start in the early morning when the skies are clearest, many trekkers begin their drive to Ramechhap at around 1:00 in the morning. And since flights to Lukla can only take place when the skies are clear, if flights are cancelled for the day (which does happen sometimes), trekkers might themselves faced with the choice of waiting in Ramechhap for the weather to clear, taking the long and grueling drive towards Lukla, or paying extra for a helicopter ride to Lukla.

But the journey is part of the fun of a trek in Nepal, so don’t let the travel logistics scare you. Both regions see tens of thousands of visitors a year, so a trek in either one is very doable nowadays, especially when using a reputable trekking company.

Comfort during the trek:

What makes for a comfortable trek differs depending on the trekker. For the purposes of this article, “comfortable” means having access to many of the amenities that trekkers have come to expect in their home countries, such as good accommodation, hot showers, good wifi, and quality food. In that respect, the Annapurna Region makes for a more comfortable trek than the Everest Region.

A trek in the Everest Region usually starts from Lukla at 2,800 meters, and can rise to over 5,500 meters in some of the high passes and on Kala Patthar. The Everest Region is not connected to the rest of Nepal by road, so the infrastructure tends to be more basic. Electricity tends to be produced locally, mostly through solar or hydroelectric power. This means that in times without sunlight or when rainfall is scarce, power failures tend to occur. In addition, cell phone towers are absent in most areas of the Everest Region, so trekkers will be without cellphone access after Dingboche. Even in Dengboche cellular service can be spotty at times. And free Wi-Fi is unlikely to be found after Namche Bazar, forcing trekkers who want Wi-Fi to either pay a daily fee at their tea house or spend $10 a day or more for Wi-Fi through Airlink.

The view from Lobuche. No cellular service and unreliable Wi-Fi here, so if you’re up late and can’t sleep you’ll have to go outside to entertain yourself with views of Nuptse

As for accommodation in the Everest Region, the lack of roads once again makes for more basic accommodation. Tea houses below the tree line are typically made from local lumber, with everything else from windows to toilets to food carried up the hill by porter or yak. Above the tree line, everything must be brought in by porter or yak. As a result, the tea houses in the Everest Region tend to have thin walls and shared bathrooms, making for some cold nights. Although some tea houses above Namche Bazar offer hot showers, the showers are typical solar powered and cost extra, so don’t expect a daily shower in the Everest Region. The food available in the Everest Region tends to be pretty basic as well, and the prices rise considerably the further you travel from Lukla.

By contrast, much of the Annapurna Region is connected by road. As a result, the accommodation tends to be more comfortable; with warm rooms, in-room bathrooms, and hot showers being far more common than in the Everest Region. Cellular service and Wi-Fi also tend to be much better in the Annapurna Region, with free Wi-Fi being the norm at most tea houses and cellular service being reliable in all but the most remote areas. Food and drink are often cheaper in the Annapurna Region, with a greater variety of offerings.

Upper Pisang village on the Annapurna Circuit Trek. Free Wi-Fi and great cellular service abound. The road to Besisahar is just out of frame to the right

Although you are still surrounded by nature and the beauty of the Himalayas in the Annapurna Region, the modern comforts trekkers have become accustomed to are still available. There are some newer treks like Khopra Danda and Mohare Danda where accommodation is a bit more basic and somewhat similar to that found in the Everest Region, but in general the quality of accommodation is better in the Annapurna Region.

Of course, trekking in Nepal is about connecting with nature and experiencing something new. Some might even prefer the lack of modernity found in the Everest Region. But if comfort is something that’s important to you, the Annapurna Region is the way to go. 

The true essence a trek: the actual hiking

Both the Annapurna Region and the Everest Region boast a variety of world-class trekking routes. If you’re looking for something more like a glorified hike, Annapurna Region might be the better option as it boasts a variety of shorter, less strenuous treks like Poon Hill and Mardi Himal. But if you’re a hiking enthusiast looking for a true trek, one with more challenging terrain in a more natural environment, Everest Region is probably a better option.

The Annapurna Region sees more than three times the number of visitors every year than does the Everest Region. The reason for this is subject to debate, but what isn’t debatable is that the Annapurna Region feels more “connected” to the rest of Nepal. Although some newer treks like still retain that raw feel, the trails in the Annapurna Region tend to have more of a “day hike” feel. Even the Annapurna Circuit Trek, the king of the Annapurna Region treks, still has roads that connect all but two of the villages that trekkers overnight in. And while there are often sections of trail that avoid these roads, having to trek on roads at some point is an inevitability on the Annapurna Circuit and on many other treks in the Annapurna Region. Trekking on roads, even dusty and bumpy ones, tends to detract from the “natural” experience.

View from the “trekking trail” near Tadopani, a village on the Annapurna Circuit Trek, Khopra Danda Trek, and some versions of the Annapurna Base Camp

Thankfully, most of the trekking trails in the Annapurna Region are not on roads. However, many of the trekking trails follow the same route as the power lines and telecommunication cables. And as much as these wires make life in the Annapurna Region more comfortable, the pictures you’ll take won’t feel as authentic and it doesn’t quite feel like you’re truly in nature. Even if you’re lucky enough to get away from the power lines and the roads, you’re more likely to encounter paved trails and well-constructed staircases in the Annapurna Region. Sure, great, natural trekking routes can still be found in the upper reaches of the Annapurna Circuit and on newer treks like Khopra Danda, but the big-name treks in the Annapurna Region feel a bit artificial at times.

The Everest Region, on the other hand, feels more natural. There are no roads to speak of, and no power lines to worry about after the few days of the trek. The trails, though still well-trodden and safe, tend to be on rock and dirt paths made by yaks instead of modern construction equipment. You won’t see jeeps or lorries in the Everest Region, and although you might run into a traffic jam or two during your trek, it will be trains of yaks and mules causing the traffic.

View from the “trekking trail” between Gorak Shep and EBC, with the Khumbu Icefall at the bottom left

After passing Shomare on the way to Dingboche, the trails begin to shine in their natural splendor. Well-trodden, dirt paths give way to narrow yak trails, loose scree, large boulders, and even glaciers near EBC and in the higher passes like the Cho La Pass. The trails become non-linear at times, in that there is more than one way to get from Point A to Point B. The natural aspect of the trails in the upper reaches of the Everest Region are truly world-class.

Both regions contain some of the best trekking routes on Earth that are both challenging and rewarding. But true hiking enthusiasts will appreciate the more “wild” side that the Everest Region has to offer. 

The variety of treks and landscapes to see:

The Everest Region and the Annapurna Region both offer fantastic scenery. But crazy as it may seem, for some people, seeing mountain after mountain, day after day, might start to get a bit old after a few days. Some people want to see other things like lakes, rivers, orchards, local villages, and wildlife just as much as they want to see the world’s tallest mountains. If you’re looking for variety, both in terms of the types of scenery as well as the types of treks available, Annapurna is the better bet.

As discussed previously, in the Everest Region you can see four of the six tallest mountains on Earth, many 7,000+ meter peaks, as well as countless other peaks above 6,000 meters. And there is some variation in the terrain as well, with the trail from Lukla to Namche Bazar winding through dense rhododendron forests dotted with small terraced farms on either side of a raging river. From Namche Bazar to Tingboche, the dense forest gives way to mountainside shrubs and brush crisscrossed by yak trails. And as you climb even farther up the mountain, the vegetation disappears entirely, leaving a rocky, glaciated landscape that looks like it’s from another planet. 

View from the trekking trail between Phakding and Namche Bazar, just before the Hillary Bridge

The Annapurna Region, on the other hand, has these views and more. In addition to the terrain found in the Everest Region, the Annapurna Region boasts thick subtropical forests, beautiful apple orchards, and desert terrain reminiscent of Tibet. Some trekking days, you will encounter a huge variety of landscapes that keep you on the edge of your seat, wondering what you’ll see around the next bend. As a result, the landscapes of the Annapurna Region don’t tend to blend together as much as those found in the Everest Region.

The Annapurna Region also has a greater variety of trekking options than the Everest Region. Although the Everest Region boasts world class treks such as the Three Passes and Gokyo Lake, these treks all start from Lukla and tend to visit many of the same villages along the way. Although these villages are beautiful, if you’ve already seen Namche Bazar, Dengboche, Tingboche, Lobuche, and Gorak Shep while doing the EBC trek, a subsequent trek to the Three Passes will invariably have you visiting these locations a second time. Plus, if you’re in the market for a short trek, the Everest Region doesn’t have much to offer currently.  

View of the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna Ranges from Khopra, which can be reached in only 3 days from Pokhara

By contrast, the Annapurna Region has so many possible variations for a trek, both in terms of length and places visited. Annapurna Region has many short treks from 4-9 days, such as Mardi Himal, Khopra Danda, Mohare Danda, Poon Hill, and Annapurna Base Camp, leaving a traveler with a shorter holiday many options for a great trek. If you have the time for a longer trek, you can visit the Manang Valley, Thorong La Pass, the lower reaches of the Mustang Region, and the foothills of the Dhaulagiri Range. And with road access to many areas of the Annapurna Region, the duration of traditionally long treks like the Annapurna Circuit can be cut in half by driving through the lower reaches of the trek instead of walking.

Both regions are fantastic places to trek. But if you’ve done a trek like the Three Passes in the Everest Region, future treks in the region will be much of the same. But every trek in the Annapurna Region has a unique flavor to it, leaving you wanting to come back again and again. 

The Views:

This is the most difficult category to try and pick a winner between the Annapurna Region and the Everest Region. Both offer world-class views of some of the tallest and most beautiful mountains on Earth. Both will take your breath away (both literally and figuratively). But in an effort to help you choose which region you should choose if you can only choose one, a visualization of the comparisons can help. For visualization purposes, you can think of the Annapurna Region as Spanish Tapas, while the Everest Region would be more akin to a lavish five course meal.

In Spanish Tapas, rather than a few large dishes spread out over the course of a meal, instead there is a large number of smaller dishes one after another, with additional dishes sometimes arriving after previous dishes are finished. The amount of food eaten is the same as a five-course meal, but there is a greater variety of food and it comes at you one after another.  In the Annapurna Region, you might go from a rhodendron forest to an apple orchard to a deep valley with panoramic views of the Annapurna Range over the course of a few hours. The next day, you might leave the lush valleys behind and cross the tree line, hiking along brush-covered hillsides with countless yaks, before reaching a rocky, lifeless-looking, desert landscape where you’ll spend the night. Each view unique and enjoyed for a short period of time, before the next view presents itself as you round the next bend in the trail. These views are all lovely and will leave you incredibly satisfied at the end of your day’s trek. 

View from Jomsom. In the foreground are apple orchards, in the background are Niligiri and the Annapurna Range, and in the middle are hills reminiscent of Tibet

The Everest Region, on the other hand, is like a meal with far fewer courses spread out over the course of the meal, but each dish is an event in and of itself, making the experience more than worth the weight. As you walk from Lukla to Namche, the sights you’ll see are very nice, but you’ll have a sense of anticipation knowing that, on a clear day, you might be able to get your first glimpse of Mount Everest not long after crossing the Hillary Bridge. When you do finally see Mount Everest for the first time with Lhotse and Nupste as its neighbors and the legendary Ama Dablam looming in the foreground to your right, whether that’s after the Hillary Bridge or from the plains atop Namche Bazar, you’ll be at a loss for words.

The trek from Namche Bazaar to Dengboche and then from Dengboche to Tingboche is like an intermission between courses in your meal. Sure, the views will still be beautiful, but you’ll have generally the same view the whole time, until you cross the ridge and see Tingboche and the incredible sight of Lhotse, Island Peak, and Makalu looming in the background. You’ll be treated to another new and incredible view after crossing the Thukla Pass, where behind you will be panoramic views of Ama Dablam and other lesser-known but equally stunning mountains, with other mountains like Pumori, Lingtren and Changtse making their first appearance. And the view you’ll experience as the trail amongst large boulders finally opens up, revealing the legendary Everest Base Camp, is one you will never forget.  

View from atop the Thukla Pass, between Tingboche and Lobuche, with many memorial stupas in memory of fallen climbers

As you can see, picking which region has the better views is a bit difficult. Whether it’s better to have the great views to come one after another, albeit in smaller doses, or whether it’s better to wait in the hopes of seeing views on a grander scale depends on the person. To use a book analogy, if you’re the type of person that lets the anticipation get the better of you and sometimes decide to skip ahead and read the end of the book, Annapurna Region might be better for you. If you’re the type who believes that the anticipation is the best part and waits happily for the conclusion, the Everest Region would be a good choice. But really, you can’t go wrong with either.

Hopefully the food example helps you to visualize whether you would prefer your mountain views in Spanish Tapas form or in the form of a five-course meal. But at the risk of tainting your decision-making process by interjecting my personal experience and my subjective bias, I must say that on average I enjoyed the day-to-day views in the Annapurna Region more than those in the Everest Region, but when I reflect on all the beautiful things I’ve experienced in Nepal, more often than not it’s a view from the Everest Region that I’m thinking about. 

Conclusion:

In case you read the whole blog and are keeping count, the score is 3 to 3 with one category being a tie (or a punt by the writer).  But in reality, the decision really is that difficult. To sum it up as succinctly as possible, if you want a variety of trekking options, appreciate a trek that is easy to reach and easy to return home from, and are looking comfort and modern amenities, the Annapurna Region is a better choice. On the other hand, if you are looking for bragging rights, want to experience the highest elevations in the rooftop of the world, and want to trek in the most natural of conditions, the Everest Region is probably the right choice.

If the views are the most important thing for you, hopefully the tapas vs. five-course meal analogy helps. If not, check out the galleries available on this website for treks in these respective regions and see which sights you want to see more of in person.

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Art representing various natural and cultutal heritages of Nepal
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